Ecstatic Encounters with Shiva at Kailash

Welcome to the crown of planet earth:
Kailash Parvat is also revered as the Mount Meru, the terrestrial standing pillar of light that beckons aspirant to realign their spine and burn their karmic baggage. In simple terms, it is one of the most profound reminders to connect with our true self. It welcomes us to re-ignite our connection with the Jyotirlinga, the eternal, infinite, fathomless pillar of light that beams the projection of universes.

Our evolution of spine into its upright state signifies our ability to direct the kundalini through the glorious channel of subtle unreflected light. Our spine is referred as Meru danda, the upright channel that is meant to be magnetized in the proximity of Mount Meru, the abode of the greatest master to have visited this plane, Shiva in his supreme yogic perfection. This magnificent mountain becomes relevant to us when we seek liberation from the cyclical spins of evolution. Walking around Kailash will relay the effect of spinal churning and karmic burning, which is crucial to liberating from the bondage of limitations of emotional memory. The concept is definitely inviting. However, it would be an oversimplification to imagine that just trekking around this mountain would dissolve the karma. If that were to be true in its effect, all the Sherpas spinning around the mountain would be enlightened and liberated.

There is a deep-seated yogic process to it. Unless the intent is clarified, all actions will be just a mechanical process or a ritual. In words of a German mountaineer whom I met in my previous parikrama, who looked at Mt. Kailash and declared “just another snow clad mountain”. Ignorance seems valid until we are shaken out of our pretentious slumber.

We are welcomed, but not welcome
The journey around Mt. Kailash remains on the bucket list for hardcore pilgrims and die-hard devotees of Shiva. When the initial euphoria evens out, all our devotion, endurance, and determination are tested at every bend en route the parikrama reminds us that we are walking on the roof of the planet earth, while under the influence of its most intense magnetic field. Mt. Kailash is the ‘seventh chakra’ and ‘axis’ of the earth. The magnificent snow-laden mountain Kailash Parvat is the revered the abode of Shiva, the greatest yogi ever.

Tibet beckons the pilgrims with the ‘calling’ to bask in its elusive, mystique and rugged charm. If we are logically inclined, the unlearning lesson begins at the very outset. Everyone gets to expect the unexpected. The weather gods unleash an unpredictable splash of moods that reflect in its swaying temperatures, gusty winds, incessant snow, massive cloudbursts and landslides. The real shocker for any civilized being comes from the standards of service, hygiene and toilets. We get to figure out that we are deliberately denied any,  kind of ‘customer service’ even from the assigned staff at the lodges. It is probably a lesson on ego bashing that we are treated shabbily in the land of gods.

In Tibet, it will not take us long to realize that our presence is not welcome. The military-style immigration process signals that we are not really a tourist or a pilgrim, but an unwanted guest. For all those with bloated egos, it is one of few spaces on earth, where our sense of control, power and self-importance is pulverized into the thin air at the outset. The circumstances that weave around us tend to create a strange bunch of events to remind us of our insignificant presence in the vastness and wilderness of this mystical land. Such is the intensity of the journey, that one would resort to calling it ‘once-in-a-lifetime-journey’. A repeat trip would seem like another lifetime for most of them. Many consider one spin around Kailash Parvat, to be a complete karmic dissolution in itself.  We are in different stages of the evolution cycle. We never know when the ‘calling’ happens and if Shiva summons, we are pulled out of our comfort zones, limitations and reservations.

Tibet seems like warped in time, a forgotten land in terms of global politics or human rights. The forceful Chinese occupation has denied Tibet its true glory and creative expression. Despite all the trickling claims and promises, we don’t see a genuine governing concern to honour the true sanctity of this land or the pilgrims that show up with their pure devotion. When human filth surfaces up, the only option is to look for solace into those glorious clouds, lakes, snow capped mountains in admiration and seeking divine intervention. Tibet invokes the desperate devotion in us. It urges one to pray to overcome hurdles that appear glaringly along the journey.

Oxygen levels, temperature and altitude are the most niggling topics before and during the parikrama. It is not a surprise that we encounter the most anxious bunch of pilgrims that come with a deep-seated wish to surpass all challenges and fulfil their dream of trekking around the most magnificent mountain on the face of the earth.

Lake Manasarovar: The most sacred celestial bathing hub:
Lake Manasarovar is a revered pure water lake that is fed by Kailash glaciers. At 15,060 feet with a surface area of 320 square kilometres, it makes its presence a treat to watch. Its brilliant hues and shades of aquamarine entice all those who throng this mystical water body that serves a sacred pilgrim spot and also as an early morning bathing hub of celestial beings and huge convergence point of an energy grid. The aspirants in all ‘shapes’, ‘sizes’, ‘colours’, ‘wrappings’, ‘readiness’ and ‘fitness’ seek the blessings and protection of the ‘mother divine’ to enable them to stretch their limitations and realize their cherished dream. Flanked by the gorgeous mountain range of Gurla Mandhata and the four mighty rivers Ravi, Sutlej, Brahmaputra and Ghaghara, and Chiu Gompa Monastery, the Lake Manasarovar finds itself in an exotic location that promises irresistible natural beauty.

Tibet continues to be an enigma. It is hard to assume or expect any definite event from this remote space with its daunting track record. Despite all the pure intent, it is evident that only a small percentage of pilgrims complete the parikrama around Mt.Kailash. The obvious aspect is that none of us are in control of our journeys. We are at the mercy of nature gods, and not to miss the watchful Chinese guides and their bosses that monitor every activity in their terrain as the ‘Big Brother’. The Nepali sherpas of Kailash Journeys, our tour operator gave their heart out to cheer up and inspire the sagging morale of our team, especially with the pathetic conditions of toilets and food. Thankfully, the abundance and beauty of nature make up for the lack of facilities and resources that one may desperately seek during their expedition.

Our earth is a pale blue dot wrapped in a magnanimous golden beam reflected by the Sun. Earth continues to fascinate with its resilience despite the onslaught of destructive human greed. Certain spaces remind us of the celestial fragrance and frequencies. It gravitates us to experience the depth of purity that we are capable of experiencing.  Lake Manasarovar is an enigma. All the scientists put together are not able to figure of the mystic nature of it. For all those who scoff at the presence of higher beings, a visit to this magnetic lake can change all perceptions.

Many questions do pop up if one were to understand the need for Manasarovar on our planet. The creation is complete in itself. It finds its own designated pathways to transmit its messages and complete the cycle of its glorious intent and actions. The masters of the universes find creative ways to transmit their messages and give cues and reminders to those beings who can receive the subtle presence.  Manasarovar is a creative pool, a laboratory of the cosmic experiment to channel stillness and essence of the light masters. As humans, we believe in free will, and in our ability to honour the gifts of nature.  The fact remains that only a few evolved beings will truly be able to realize the design of Lake Manasarovar and the immensity of energies that transmit through this magnificent body of pure water. The message of the lake is crystal clear. It reminds “Be Still and know that you are God”. In a state of purest stillness, the distortion of our thought stream is pulverized. We give ourselves the opportunity to listen to the voice within. This voice guides us on the path towards realizing the flow of the river of prana current within. To an initiated being, just being in the presence of Manasarovar the devotion emerges as an upsurge of current within. It is instantaneous and not something we can prepare for. One may wonder if such profound experiences are linked to our personal beliefs. I experimented by being neutral and a pure witness in presence of this magnificence unfurling itself. However, as much as we try to prepare, the surge of the mother divine is impossible to resist. The transmission of Mother as Saraswati, the goddess of creative intelligence is supremely alive in every water molecule of this lake. The grace of mother reflects in every ray, band of light that permeates through the depth of the lake. At its surface its ever
The purest magnetism of spiritual energies combined with challenges adds to the air of mystique that hangs low like those massive silvery clouds. Tibet spreads its super vast canvas that seems hard to capture. It keeps reminding that we are at the roof of the world. No amount of preparation seems enough to absorb its pristine energies that stream through its snow-capped mountains, streams, rivers, placid lakes, magnanimous clouds, mysterious caves, cosmic interventions that permeate the starlit skies. There is an unseen welcome note from up above. All we need is the indomitable spirit which comes with intense preparation to take on the challenge.

The Himalayan Boot Camp at Kevala:
I am often reminded of resilience from the hard-hitting survival story of Louis Zamperini, a US prisoner of first world war in the movie ‘Unbroken’ that conveyed the impossible hardships he faced and emerged victorious owing to his die-hard spirit. The essence of which is highlighted by the statement “if you can take it, you can make it”.

At 3700 ft above sea level, and surrounded by hills, Kevala Foundation became our first choice boot camp location to prepare for Kailash journey. Our biggest advantage is that the sacred Deviramma Hill is in the vicinity has no tourists through the year, except on the occasion of Diwali. This gives us exclusive and easy access to explore the trek up the summit point in a clutter-free environment. Past experiences have allowed me to understand that it is not easy taking a bunch of city-bred novices up the hill. One has to get used the slowdowns, complaints, groans and cravings that are constantly expressed in varying tones. Walking in silence with a unified focus on the breath is the way to access a higher state of rhythm within. The way we hold ourselves, transfer our body weight, extend our breath, ground in for vitality, enables us to extract the right approach towards an effortless effort of preparing for the Himalayan challenge. It is transparent we can never replicate a rarified Himalayan atmosphere at lower heights. The easy way to compensate for this to practice short bursts of sprinting uphill, closer to the summit. It can get tricky to prepare for such sprints. One needs to gradually progress towards attaining a fine-tuned body that can handle the endurance required for heart and lung to adjust to the energy demands. The alveoli sacs in the lungs experience a surprise wave of pressure and yield to the demand for oxygenation.

There are some clear indications in the body that one observes in these short bursts. In a heightened state, one can distinctly hear the pulse at the vortex of the head in intense dynamism. The mountain spirit will always remain an inspiration. A little contemplation will enable us to realize why Masters have deliberately placed their altars at the summit of many mountains. It serves as an inspiring milestone to keep the devotees aligned and fit. It also reaffirms the strong consuming feeling that unfurls at the summit point “Higher the altar, deeper the devotion”.`

Despite all our training in the hills, there was a niggling feeling that it was nowhere close to the readiness that for the demands of ‘Drolma La’ Pass in Tibet at 19,800 ft. The Himalayas remains the spiritual engine, cradle, firepower that ignites the unawakened to an intensely demanding journey into the core of everything. All assumptions that we harbour from gathering information from journeyers and travelogues will be an indication, as Tibet unleashes a range of startling personal experiences that are unique to each of us of the stage of karma. The lessons to accept to expect the unexpected is in plenty. It is safe to conclude that the mystic eventually wins over every logical approach we can conceive.

This writeup will be concluded in a full-fledged Book, written by Dr Pradeep Ullal, Head of Kevala Foundation.